The low down on AHA’S
AHA means Alpha Hydroxy Acid. AHA’s are of natural or synthetic origin.
They are a kind of very powerful exfoliator referred to as “Chemical exfoliation”.
They smooth the skin by removing its dead cells, bringing on an immediate healthy glowing effect.
In addition to this keratolytic/cell renewal effect, each has a complementary action.
There are a total of 6 acids in the AHA family.
Let’s start with the Facts!
AHA means Alpha Hydroxy Acid. AHA’s are of natural or synthetic origin.
They are a kind of very powerful exfoliator referred to as “Chemical exfoliation”.
They smooth the skin by removing its dead cells, bringing on an immediate healthy glowing effect.
In addition to this keratolytic/cell renewal effect, each has a complementary action.
There are a total of 6 acids in the AHA family.
Different types of AHA’s & their complementary action.
· Citric Acid – is a citrus fruit extract – Radiance booster / Astringent actions
· Lactic Acid – Fermentation of milk and fruit sugar extract, pulses – Moisturising
· Mandelic Acid – Bitter almond extract – Depigmenting
· Malic Acid – Apple, pear and grape extract – Hydrating
· Tartaric Acid – Grape extract – Anti oxidant/Anti Inflammatory actions
· Glycolic Acid – Sugar cane/pineapple extract or Synthetic form – Anti Wrinkle
Exfoliation is a very valued addition to your skin care routine - once incorporated correctly.
As teenagers, I’m sure you all experience mechanical scrubs – the beaded kind? These work on the surface of your skin, to scrub off the outer layer. This can be in an abrasive manner and often leads to a broken skin barrier and irritation as a result of over or improper use.
Chemical exfoliants penetrate the deeper layer to loosen, lets call it the glue that holds our skin cells together. They allow a clean “lift off” of dead skin cell without any friction or abrasive action on the surface.
Chemical exfoliation is generally our preferred method of exfoliation but choosing the right one for your skin type/concern is a delicate art. While there is nothing to fear with the words “Chemical” or “Acid”, there is a lot to consider before you start using them and they should not be used in a willy-nilly manner. You will end up doing more harm than good to your skin. Many factors are taken into consideration before choosing the correct product for you and how you should use it. Thorough consultation and continued assessment & guidance are essential to ensure your skin remains at optimal health.
Yonka Glyconight 10%
A night peeling mask with 10% pure glycolic acid
IMAGE Ageless Total Facial Cleanser
This cleanser is 12% glycolic acid so is a highly active cleanser. It is not suitable for congested skin as glycolic acid can draw spots up to the surface.
IMAGE Ageless Total Anti-Aging Serum
10% blend of glycolic, lactic and malic acids
Book your skin assessment today to ensure you are exfoliating your way to glowing skin and not damaged skin!
The Secret Essence Self Care Suite
Self-Care takes many forms but ultimately, it’s the process of looking after you.
Born in the middle of a global pandemic, the Secret Essence Self Care Suite, brought us back to our original roots. We once again look to a more holistic approach at living, looking after ourselves from the inside out. Take time to appreciate who we are, what we are and what we can become. Nourish our souls, understand our thoughts, calm our minds and treat our bodies.
“Self Care takes many forms but ultimately, it’s the process of looking after you.”
Self-Care takes many forms but ultimately, it’s the process of looking after you.
Born in the middle of a global pandemic, the Secret Essence Self Care Suite, brought us back to our original roots. We once again look to a more holistic approach at living, looking after ourselves from the inside out. Take time to appreciate who we are, what we are and what we can become. Nourish our souls, understand our thoughts, calm our minds and treat our bodies.
Knowing and doing more of what you love is the greatest act of self-care. This can be as superficial and simple as swapping high heels for slippers or delving a little deeper to discover what makes you tick! In my opinion, neither trumps the other as the end result can mean an equal gratification to different people. Self-Care is Self-Care and any act of self-care no matter how big or small is an achievement in this modern world.
In the rat race that is now simply known as “Adult Life”, it’s very easy get lost. We get sucked into the rat race and forget about the little things and the lovely things in life that we love to do and make us feel good. Things that help release the feel-good hormones (we all need more of these). We are always rushing to the next place, trying to meet deadlines, clock watching, following schedules, planning & trying to please others. Even mentally verbalising those words conjure certain feelings in me & make my heart pound in my chest. Did you feel it too?? It’s called stress!
Being forced to press pause has really made me re-evaluate everything. It has given me a chance to enjoy what I love to do without feeling guilty. (Guilty for choosing to look after myself - Was I insane???). Reading, writing, new little daily rituals, enjoying a bath instead of a quick shower, slipping into comfy pj’s and cosy slippers while watching a movie or spending time to cook a nice dinner, going for long muddy walks in the Castle with Bailey, doing a home facial, practising mindfulness, planting flowers and watching them grow, taking an online yoga class, faffing about the house, being creative and loosing myself in the process – oh how my life has changed, and if I’m honest, I’m not sure I want to give it all up. I am enjoying the slower pace of life and I can’t imagine going back to my old ways.
The Secret Essence Self Care Suite, is a space dedicated to you. It houses a collection of things I enjoy and wanted to share with you in the hope it might spark joy for you too. It’s time to let go of the rat race and let Self Care became the new race in adult life.
Here’s some of my favourite things that have helped me through lockdown.
Create the life you long for, manifest it & it will happen. Remember, if you don’t do it, no one else will do it for you.
“Lets spark Joy with Self Care.”
Maskne - How are you?!
MASKNE - Professionally categorised and known as “Acne Mechanica”.
It is a type of acne caused by excessive friction and pressure on the skin. It has always been with us but as a result of the current pandemic it developed a specific localised sub category which has become very prevalent.
It’s nickname – Maskne.
It tends to form around the areas of your face covered by protective masks. It is becoming more common as we fight against COVID-19
MASKNE - Professionally categorised and known as “Acne Mechanica”.
It is a type of acne caused by excessive friction and pressure on the skin. It has always been with us but as a result of the current pandemic it developed a specific localised sub category which has become very prevalent.
It’s nickname – Maskne.
It tends to form around the areas of your face covered by protective masks.
It is becoming more common as we fight against COVID-19.
What causes Maskne?
When we breathe into our masks, we increase the heat & moisture level within that specific enclosed area, creating the perfect environment for bacteria to grow. This can introduce a change in our skin’s natural PH or microbiome level resulting in an over production of bacteria and yeast that might result in acne, folliculitis and a flare up of rosacea. From actual pustular acne to irritation and sensitivity caused from friction created by constant face coverings, Maskne differs from one person to the next, depending on their skin types. Preventing and treating the issue differs as a result too but there are some common ground areas, we all need to be vigilant with.
My top tips for preventing Maskne:-
· Avoid wearing makeup under your mask. If you choose to wear make-up ensure it is a mineral based brand as they are non-comedogenic, they do not clog pores and allow your skin to breathe. They can contain anti-inflammatory ingredients that aid problematic skin. IMAGE I CONCEAL mineral make-up is ideal. This all mineral foundation with broad spectrum UVA & UVB protection (SPF 30) has plant stem cell, anti-oxidants and skin-conditioning botanicals to nourish the skin while giving you a full coverage.
· Change your mask regularly throughout the day and put a clean fresh one on. The longer you leave the same mask on the skin, the longer your skin is exposed to that moist, breeding ground for bacteria you are creating as well as the bacteria, dirt and grime you come in contact with, not to mention the friction from the material rubbing against your skin.
· Staying hydrated is essential, both inside the body and topically on the skin. Drink plenty of water and use hydrating mists like YONKA LOTION to spritz the skin throughout the day. Spritzing is like giving your skin a drink of super charged water. This lotion is packed full of lovely essential oils that will have a calming, anti-bacterial effect while refreshing and rehydrating your skin.
Yonka Lotion
“A supercharged drink for your skin” - It’s Spritz o Clock time!
· If you are feeling dry/sensitive as result, apply an emollient rich face cream to calm and soothe the area throughout the day. Yonka Hydra No 1 Crème or Yonka Nutri Defense (our SOS cream for a dryer skin) will give you the hydration and comfort your skin needs to restore its balance.
Yonka Nutri Defense Creme
YonKa Nutri Defense Cream is the emergency SOS solution to your dry or very dry skin. Enriched with essential fatty acids (omega 3, 6, 9, and more), Nutri Defense Cream supplies immediate and long-lasting comfort to under-nourished skin. Hydrating agents and antioxidants also helps skin combat premature signs of ageing.
· Once you get home, remove your mask & cleanse your skin immediately. (I’m sure you’ve heard the saying or even felt for yourself by now that taking of your mask is the new “taking of your bra feeling” …...nothing quite like it!!!) As usual, I recommend double cleansing your face in the evening and even triple cleansing if necessary, to remove every inch of make-up, dirt or pollutants you may have come in contact with during your day. Use your regular cleanser to remove your make-up then add a treatment cleanser if needed, like IMAGE CLEAR CELL CLEANSER to target treat the MASKNE. This contains Salicylic Acid which will penetrate your pores & mop up any excess oil or debris from dead skin cells, make up residue or pollution. It is very anti-inflammatory & helps to calm down redness & irritation while preventing breakouts from developing into dreaded volcanoes!!!
IMAGE Clear Cell Clarifying gel cleanser
This foaming, salicylic-based gel cleanser gently removes makeup and eliminates excess oil while lightly exfoliating dead skin cells and keeping skin smooth, soft and shine free.
· Restoring your skins PH & microbiome balance is essential. Here’s where you can add a little SELF CARE into your home routine. Apply a soothing Pro-biotic mask like IMAGE IMASK probiotic clay mask or YONKA Sensitive Masque with arnica. Both very anti-inflammatory & packed full of vitamins and minerals, will leave your skin with optimal hydration, clarity and balance.
IMAGE Purifying Probiotic Mask
Helps to detoxify and clear away impurities leaving skin clean, smooth and refined.
· Choose a silk face covering like our 100% Mulberry Silk Face Masks. These are much gentler against your skin reducing the chance of friction and allowing your skin to breathe.
100% Silk Face Masks
Allow your skin to breathe.
For now, it seems face coverings are here to stay. Don’t struggle behind the masks, get in touch and we can arrange a consultation to assess your situation. Everyone is different and will need specific assessment and advice. Making small consistent changes in our skin routine while keeping aware of our hygiene will help prevent any discomfort arising as we face these new challenges. As I always say, routine & consistency is key when it comes to achieving your skin glow. Don’t let it slip now. Adapt, change & let’s chat through your skin challenges.
Let’s get back to basics…… Step 1 - Cleansing!
Quite often in the clinic, when we are discussing your home regime at consultation stage, we discuss the basics. By basics, I mean your cleanse, serum, moisturise in the morning and double cleanse, serum moisturise at night. It’s a three-step regime, very simple and basic but hugely important to maintain a healthy skin.
Quite often in the clinic, when we are discussing your home regime at consultation stage, we discuss the basics. By basics, I mean your cleanse, serum, moisturise in the morning and double cleanse, serum moisturise at night. It’s a three-step regime, very simple and basic but hugely important to maintain a healthy skin.
AM Routine
Cleanse
Serum
Moisturise
PM Routine
Double Cleanse
Serum
Moisturise
“Double cleanse”, I hear you say…...Well yes, and here’s why.
Ensuring your skin is clean is probably the most under-rated step of everyone’s routine. Imagine applying your active serums on top of “dirty, blocked, make-up filled, oily” pores – sacrilege!!!!
Active serums by nature are designed to penetrate the skin at a deeper level than your moisturiser and make physical changes to your skin cells, depending on your specific condition & desired result. (serums are best chosen with the expertise of a skin therapist to ascertain what is best for your skin type). Applying these on top of unclean skin will ensure you drag dirt & debris deeper into your skin, aggravating congestion and adding to breakout & bacterial imbalances.
To ensure you have a clean skin, its imperative you double cleanse at night (triple if necessary) and then cleanse again in the morning. Creating a little am/pm ritual for cleansing will encourage you to do this daily and form a daily routine that becomes seconds nature to you. Like brushing your teeth. Telling yourself you don’t have time, quite frankly is a complete copout! It only takes 5 minutes of your time in the morning and 5 in the evening. Yes, that’s very do-able, right???
As you go about your day, apart from the make-up you probably applied in the morning, you come in contact with various pollutants, bacteria, dirt and grime that all sit on your skin, unknowns’ to you. Your first cleanse in the evening will remove the first layer of this debris. Micellaire water or pre cleansing oils are very common first cleanse choices. They are quick to use, and easily dissolve the product/debris for easy removal. Ideal substitutes for anyone (hopefully no one reading this!!!) who still use face wipes. (Did I mention facewipes are the devil when it comes to skincare?? Pop them in your kitchen cleaning cupboard instead and next time your oven needs cleaning whip them out. You’ll have it stripped of the oily residue in no time. Imagine what they do to your precious skin- OMG, it gives me the heebie-jeebies!).
Yonka Eau Micellaire is a fabulous first cleanse choice. Infused with sea lavender, rose and camomile that soothe, hydrate and refresh the skin instantly while expertly cleansing the skin quickly. Apply to a cotton pad and gently wipe the face to cleanse. Repeat until cotton pad is clean.
Yonka Eau Micellaire
Suitable for: All skin types
Next, your second cleanse will thoroughly remove any stubborn, remaining product/debris form your first cleanse that may have been trapped in your pores and ensure your skin is squeaky clean & ready for step 2, your serum.
Cleanser comes in many forms from, water, milk, lotion, cream to foaming gels. Again, your choice of cleanser should be decided at consultation stage to ensure you are choosing the correct one to treat your skin & skin concerns. Active cleanser can be introduced as a second cleanse. These not only help to exfoliate the skin but also tackle any specific skincare concern you may have, be it pigmentation, acne, sensitivity, dryness and much more. These should always be applied to a clean skin and massaged/worked into the skin for 60 seconds, then removed thoroughly.
IMAGE Ormedic balancing facial cleanser – This aloe vera based, daily gel cleanser helps balance ph levels in the skin. Leaves skin feeling clean and refreshed. It is suitable for all skin types and much loved by combination skin types.
Image Clear Cell Clarifying Gel Cleanser – This foaming salicylic based gel cleanser eliminates excess oil while lightly exfoliating dead skin cells and keeping the skin smooth, soft and shine free. It is ideal for oily/acne prone and teenage skins. Not suitable for anyone allergic to aspirin. Therapist guidance is needed when using this product.
IMAGE Ormedic Balancing Facial Cleanser
Suitable for: All skin types
IMAGE Clear Cell Clarifying Gel Cleanser
NB: Therapist advice recommended before use.
Suitable for: Oily/acne prone/problematic/teenage skin.
So why cleanse again in the morning? Did you know your skin heals and repairs itself at night while you sleep? During this active, hardworking process it naturally creates oil/sebum/fluids that can sit on the surface of your skin. You may even awake quite sluggish and puffy as a result. Again, to allow adequate product, specific ingredient penetration from your products it is advised to clean these fluids/oils from the skin and start your day with a fresh clean skin. You’ll even feel all the better for it as it will wake you up and aid your lymphatic drainage to reduce any puffiness in the skin.
Gentle cleansers like, Yonka Lait Nettoyant are ideal in the morning. This 2-1 milk will calm and cleanse your skin while efficiently removing all traces of makeup. With a purifying mixture of borneol and hydrating plant based cleansing agents, it creates balance for your skin’s natural oils. Great for dry or mature skin types.
Yonka Lait Nettoyant Cleansing Milk
Suitable for: All skin types/Dry Skin/ Mature Skin
If all this still has you questioning the power of a basic “double cleanse” cleansing routine, check out my “Cleanse Test” in the highlight section of our Instagram page. USERNAME: secretessence_birr
– it’s an eye opener!!
We have many cleansing options at Secret Essence. Choosing the right one for you is only one choice away. Book your skin consultation today so we can assess your skin and give you all the advice you need to make an informed decision which cleanser is best for you.